Even the most novice wine consumer has heard the terms Burgundy and Bordeaux, two wine terms that conjure fear in those just beginning to learn wine, and even some of those who have made wine a career! Often, the more you learn about these two renowned French wine regions, the more confusing they become, so it is important to begin with just the basics. We will touch on the most prominent sub-regions within Burgundy and Bordeaux, and we will highlight other less prominent sub-regions in the future, when we begin discussing great bargain wines. These “basics” should allow you to assist your wine professional in leading you through the French wine adventure that awaits you!
Bordeaux and Burgundy are not grapes, they are regions!
Last week, we discussed Old World vs. New World, and the importance of a wine’s sense of place in the Old World. Bordeaux and Burgundy both embody the idea of terroir, and are quintessentially Old World wines. The regions both contain a myriad of soil types, which influence both which grapes will be grown, and how the grapes character will be affected. This is just one factor in why Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux will taste different from Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. In the 20th and 21st centuries, as winemaking spans the globe, specifying varietals from a particular part of the world is important in distinguishing them in both style and quality.
What grapes are used in Bordeaux and Burgundy?
France has strict rules about what varietals a winemaker can put into a wine and still claim that it comes from a specific area. Bordeaux, a region in western France, permits winemakers to use several grape varietals in its wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Carmènere, and Petit Verdot (although the latter three are used in very small proportions, if at all) for reds; and Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle for whites. These wines are blended to some degree by producers to create their best wine based on the best grapes that grow in their small corner of their Bordeaux world. Also, weather can be inclement and unpredictable here, and growing different varietals that ripen at earlier and later points of the year ensure that the producer is never left empty handed. For instance, think of Bordeaux as a heart with a peace sign drawn inside of it. This is a crude description, but it will allow you to envision the general idea of Bordeaux’s specific regions. The left side of the heart is the “Left Bank” of Bordeaux. Because of the variable soil types here, wines are based in most part on the two varietals that tend to grow the most successfully in those soil types: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The other grapes are added for character if they are a superior vintage, like the late-ripening Petit Verdot. The right side of the heart, the “Right Bank”, relies most heavily on Merlot, because it ripens early, and it does well in the Right Bank’s clay and limestone soils. Cabernet Franc is also used in Right Bank Bordeaux blends, but Cabernet Sauvignon is seen more seldomly. Within the Left and Right Banks are many broad and specific regions, the latter of which produce some of the finest wines in the world. The bottom of the heart encompasses the Entre-Deux-Mers (a French term meaning “between two rivers) which is the heart of white wine production in Bordeaux.
Burgundy, a wine region in eastern France, permits winemakers to use only four main varietals in its wines, with few exceptions, and the only two that produce the highest quality wines of the region are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Beaujolais, another region within Burgundy, makes wines based on the Gamay grape. There are two smaller quality wine making regions within Burgundy that produce some of the world’s finest wines: Chablis, which is based exclusively on Chardonnay; and the Cote d’Or (which contains the two smaller regions of Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune). Chablis is Chardonnay, but it is referred to as Chablis because of the Old World tendency to label wines based on their place of origin, and because it is such a unique representation of Chardonnay. To call Chablis simply Chardonnay is to minimize the uniquity of the wine. Many believe that the oyster shell quality of the soil can be tasted in this bone dry interpretation of the varietal, a true expression of terroir. Unlike its American counterparts, which are often fermented or aged in new American or French oak, Chablis is rarely made in anything stronger than neutral oak barrels, and often in stainless steel. The Cote d’Or is divided into two smaller regions, the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. Generally speaking, the wines of the Cote de Nuits are red, based exclusively on Pinot Noir; the wines of the Cote de Beaune are whites, based on Chardonnay. The way that I remember this general rule of thumb would make some sommeliers cringe, I’m sure, but I will tell you the trick anyway. “Nuits” is the French word for “night” and therefore the wines are darker in color than the Cote de Beaune (pronounced “bone”), and bones are white. There are notable exceptions to this rule in each region, but we’ll leave that to your favorite wine professional to memorize and to pass on to you when you are well versed in the wines of the region.
These are regions that I personally approach with a sizeable amount of money in my wallet. While both Bordeaux and Burgundy have other regions within them that produce lovely wines at lower price points, they are more rare and difficult to find, so consult with a sommelier or a wine retailer for assistance when purchasing less expensive wines from these regions. Otherwise, you may find yourself with a disappointing representation.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Monday, July 18, 2011
Old World vs. New World
Have you ever heard the expression "Old World" vs. "New World"? It is a common term amongst wine geeks, and conveys more than just region; it conveys a style. The Old World describes the more classic wine regions: France, Italy, Spain, and Germany. Their wines are often associated with the world “terroir”, which means, in wine terms, a sense of “place”. Old World enthusiasts will argue that their wines are representative of the places in which they are made, that they reflect the soil, the weather, even the cuisine or the culture of the region from which they come. The New World describes the more youthful wine producing regions: America, Chile, Argentina and Australia. New World enthusiasts are more prone to credit the wine maker or producer with the quality of the wine. New World wine makers are more usually considered more adventurous with techniques that will change or improve a wine in the cellar, as well as in the vineyard. Nature vs. nurture of the wine world? Perhaps, but terroir and the talent of a wine maker are important factors in both the Old and New Worlds. Their differences in style will be discussed in more length in future columns…
The gaping difference between most Old World and New World that I want to touch on today is varietal labeling. In the New World, it is common to label the wines based on the grapes from which they are grown. As long as the wine contains 75% of the stated varietal, the wine is allowed to be labeled as such in most parts of the New World (Europe requires 85% to be sold in the EU, so most New World wine makers conform to this standard). Because the New World does not necessary place such a high premium on this sense of place that the Old World does, the region from which the wine is sourced is secondary to the varietals themselves. In the Old World, however, terroir means so much more. This is the reason why wines like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, and Chianti are so confusing to many wine novices. These are places on a map, not grapes.
In some ways, this can be terribly confusing. One has to be familiar with what grapes are grown in these regions, to what degree all these grapes are used, and in what style the wines within these regions are made. It is a lot easier for most consumers to pick a bottle of mid-priced California Cabernet off of the shelf. In doing this, you are doing yourself a major disservice. California Cabernets are lovely wines, but they are just one expression of Cabernet, and there are many other grapes in the world that deserve their place in your wine rack.
For the next few columns, we are going to do a quick dissection of the most common and quality Old World wine regions so that you wine enthusiasts can start understanding what it means to drink these wines, and what varietals and places they represent.
The gaping difference between most Old World and New World that I want to touch on today is varietal labeling. In the New World, it is common to label the wines based on the grapes from which they are grown. As long as the wine contains 75% of the stated varietal, the wine is allowed to be labeled as such in most parts of the New World (Europe requires 85% to be sold in the EU, so most New World wine makers conform to this standard). Because the New World does not necessary place such a high premium on this sense of place that the Old World does, the region from which the wine is sourced is secondary to the varietals themselves. In the Old World, however, terroir means so much more. This is the reason why wines like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, and Chianti are so confusing to many wine novices. These are places on a map, not grapes.
In some ways, this can be terribly confusing. One has to be familiar with what grapes are grown in these regions, to what degree all these grapes are used, and in what style the wines within these regions are made. It is a lot easier for most consumers to pick a bottle of mid-priced California Cabernet off of the shelf. In doing this, you are doing yourself a major disservice. California Cabernets are lovely wines, but they are just one expression of Cabernet, and there are many other grapes in the world that deserve their place in your wine rack.
For the next few columns, we are going to do a quick dissection of the most common and quality Old World wine regions so that you wine enthusiasts can start understanding what it means to drink these wines, and what varietals and places they represent.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Learning to describe what you taste in wine
One of the most frustrating encounters I’ve experienced in my years of selling wine in restaurants is selling a table a bottle of wine they don’t enjoy because of a series of miscommunications between me and my customer. Often, it is because people misuse wine terms or simply aren’t familiar with the meaning of the wine terms being used. If I could get the world to read just one of these columns, this would be the one. This basic reference guide will make wine so much more comprehensible, you’ll soon be ordering wine like a pro!
As wine professionals, we are trained to look at a wine first, then to smell the wine, and finally, to taste. Most wine consumers are only truly concerned with the way a wine tastes, so let’s begin with those elements of a wine. We will describe wine in terms of fruit, tannin, acid, residual sugar, oak and body. If sommeliers and wine professionals are detectives, and we are trying to solve the mystery that is “which wine will this customer love?”, then these six elements are our best clues.
Term #1-- Acid
Bite into a lemon; that sharp, mouth puckering, jaw stinging sensation is attributed to acid. All wines contain some varying degree of that element. How much or how little varies with each grape varietal. Begin paying attention to how severely this sensation occurs when drinking wines you love. In addition, many of the cooler wine producing regions will have more acid in their wines because the cold weather allows for more difficult ripening, and therefore, a maintained level of acid. This is useful when comparing the same grape from different regions. A Chardonnay from the French region of Chablis tends to be far more acidic than one from California, in some part due to Chablis’ northerly location.
Higher acid grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Barbera, Cinsault, Chablis (Chardonnay)
Medium acid wines: Chardonnay (California), Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Red Zinfandel
Lower acid grapes: Gewürztraminer (Alsace), Dolcetto
Term #2-- Tannin
Drink a cup of hot black tea, or eat a handful of walnuts. That dry mouth feeling that you are suddenly experiencing is due to a chemical called “tannin” and wines with a lot of it are described as “tannic”. Many consumers cringe at the term, but most of the wines that consumers seem to love the most are wines with medium, medium plus, or high tannin structures. Tannins are derived mostly from the skins of the grapes and give the wine its color, which is why you will not hear a white wine described as tannic. Also, tannin is responsible for allowing a wine to get better with age, because they act as a preservative, which is why wines like Cabernet Sauvignon are so age-worthy. Tannin is also derived from aging a wine in oak barrels. Tannin from grape skins is more often felt across your teeth and on the back of your lips.
Higher tannin wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Malbec
Medium tannin wines: Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Merlot
Low tannin wines: Barbera, Pinot Noir
Term #3: Fruit
Fruit, surprisingly, seems to confuse people more than any other descriptor. Many associate fruit with sweetness. Remember, limes are fruit too, and no one accuses them of being sweet. Fruit is simply another way for a salesperson to make certain deductions about the wine you will like the most. If you tell your server or your sommelier that you like a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, they are now likely assuming that you like a wine with higher acid and more tartness, because the fruit character of a wine like a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is grapefruit and other citrus-like fruits. If a salesman is describing a “jammy” wine to you, you can feel confident that if you often enjoy wines like Red Zinfandel, with its cooked blueberry, blackberry or cranberry jam flavors, you may also enjoy the wine that he is suggesting. “Cooked”, “fresh”, “baked”, “ripe” and “candied” are all terms you may see or hear when describing the fruit in the wine because this is an indication of ripeness, or a lack thereof, without necessarily implying that the wine itself will be sweet. A wine may have very sweet fruit characteristics and not be a sweet wine. While many people have retorted that the only fruit that they taste in their wine is grapes, fruit characteristics are evident in every wine we drink, some are just more easily discernible than others. If identifying fruit in wine is difficult for you, read a bit about the wines you do love and see what fruit other people find in the wine. Many labels list the fruit characteristics on the wine itself, and you may also find other consumers’ descriptions on the Internet. It may help you identify those flavors yourself, or find alternative wines that you’ll love. In addition, eating more fruit, or simply tasting more fruit, will also help you to identify these flavors in your wine.
Citrus fruits: lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange (either flesh or rind)
Stone fruits: cherry, peach, plum, apricot
Tree fruits/orchard fruits: apples, pears
Sub-tropical/tropical fruits: pineapple, lychee, banana, guava, dates, fig, raisin
Melons: cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon
Berries: strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, cranberry, gooseberry, currant
Term #4: Residual sugar
This is the term we are looking for when we are actually talking about sweetness in a wine. If a wine professional refers to a wine’s residual sugar, this is when we can start thinking about sweetness in a wine. In addition, the term “dry” in a wine simply means the absence of residual sugar, or the absence of sweetness, regardless of acid or tannin. Imagine sweetening iced tea… some people like only a tiny bit of sweetness. They may order an unsweetened iced tea and add a packet of sugar. This tea only has a bit of “residual sugar”. A tea that is made with several cups of sugar diluted with water and added to the tea would be very sweet, and therefore has a high amount of residual sugar. Varietals like Italian Moscatos, or some German Rieslings, can have a higher amount of residual sugar. Other Rieslings, like Pfalz Rieslings, also German, tend to trade sugar for higher alcohol, and therefore have lower residual sugar than their Mosel counterparts. It is important if you enjoy a sweeter or drier wine to refer to these levels of sweetness as high, medium or low residual sugar when describing it to a wine salesperson. In addition, wines with residual sugar can also be referred to by their level of dryness. Brut Champagnes, for instance, have less than 15 grams of sugar per liter (definitely a dry wine), while a dessert wine, like Sauternes from France, have at least 45 grams of sugar per liter (and definitely considered to be as sweet southern sweet tea!). A term like “brut” implies that the wine will have little to no residual sugar. Terms like “demi-sec” or “off-dry” imply that the wine is less dry and has a higher degree of sugar remaining in the wine. Being aware of what “residual sugar” and “dry” mean will ensure that you do not receive a Mosel Riesling (high residual sugar, high acid) when you really wanted a French style Chardonnay from Chablis (no residual sugar, also high acid).
Higher residual sugar wines: Dessert wines, such as Sauternes, Moscato d’Asti, Trockenbeerenauslese, or Port; also some Rieslings, especially Spatlese and Auslese Rieslings from Germany
Medium residual sugar wines: Prosecco, some Abbocato from Italy, some Chenin Blanc from Loire Valley, France
Low residual sugar wines: Many if not most red wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Brut Champagne, Cortese from Italy, Pinot Grigio, Viognier
Term #5: Oak
Ah, oak. Used in the aging process of the majority of red wines, which tend to take well to oak, many winemakers are now experimenting with fermenting/aging white wines in oak as well. Some white varietals have become famous due to their sublime adaptation to oak, like Chardonnay. Others have been shown to fare better using stainless steel, which allows a wine to maintain more acid, and often more fruit character as well. In white wines, oak can add a new dimension entirely. When tasting oak in a wine, the most obvious indicators are flavors of vanilla and baking spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. If a white wine evokes memories of your Grandmother’s apple pie, it is likely that the wine has been fermented or aged in newer, likely American, oak barrels (think California Chardonnay). A wine producer may also choose to use French oak, or neutral oak in a wine, which will be more subtle than their American counterparts (think Cote de Beaune white Burgundy, also Chardonnay). If a wine has no tannins to begin with, oak aging will contribute tannin to a wine. In red wines with an abundance of tannin, oak aging will soften a wine’s tannin, making it more approachable. In a wine with very little natural tannin, a winemaker may ferment or age the wine in oak barrels in order to add character or longevity to a wine. When tasting oak tannin (as opposed to tannin derived from grapes), you tend to feel the dryness at the roof of your mouth.
Term #6: Body
Body refers to the weight of the wine in one’s mouth. When trying to determine the body of a wine, think milk. Yes, milk. Light bodied wines, like many low alcohol whites, can be compared to skim milk, or sometimes even to water. They will leave the lightest of coating on one’s glass and they will feel relatively light on the palate. If you are looking for a medium bodied wine, you may prefer something with the weight of 2% milk. Full bodied wines will have the weight of whole milk. They will leave a coating on your glass that may remain long after you have taken a drink and set your glass down. Another thing to keep in mind when determining what fullness of body you expect from your wine is region. Often, the warmer a climate, the fuller bodied your wine will be. When choosing wine on your own, if you know that you are looking for a full bodied red, think of wine growing regions with warmer climates, such as Australia, Chile, California or Argentina. This is not to say that there are not lighter bodied wines from warmer regions, but much of the time, in following this rule, you will find the fullness or lightness of body that you are seeking.
Light bodied wines: Riesling
Medium bodied wines: Gamay (Beaujolais), Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio
Full bodied wines: Cabernet, Grenache, Red Zinfandel, Merlot, Malbec
*A disclaimer to this section: a wine’s body, as well as every other factor discussed here today, can change depending upon region, climate and producer. The varietals listed are generalizations, with exceptions on occasion, of course!
Bonus Term: “Earth”
I find when selling wine that the terms that we use regarding earth can turn people off of a wine faster than any other. When a wine professional refers to a wine tasting like “turned earth”, “grass”, “limestone”, “manure”, “mushrooms” or “floral”, this does not necessarily mean that your wine is going to actually taste like your garden, a stone or a flower. These are subtle taste descriptors that often characterize a certain “je ne sais quoi” in a wine that is often most helpful when trying to convey “terroir”—a term that indicates place, where a wine is grown. Often, they indicate a certain type of dryness (the “earthiness”) or a crisp and refreshing minerality (the “limestone” element). Many sommeliers taste oyster shells in Chardonnays from Chablis, mushrooms in French Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, or violets in French Malbecs from Cahors. The more that one practices tasting, the more these subtle tastes will become evident to you, but rarely are the predominant elements in any wine, and they are certainly nothing of which you need to be afraid!
Always remember—taste is subjective. You are not necessarily wrong about what you taste in a wine, but if you are able to understand the tactile sensations of the terms listed above, you will have a better chance of successfully communicating your desires to those trying to find you the right bottle of wine. As always, good luck and good drinking!
Next week: Demystifying some of the world’s most famous wines called by many names-except the name of the actual grapes that comprise them!
As wine professionals, we are trained to look at a wine first, then to smell the wine, and finally, to taste. Most wine consumers are only truly concerned with the way a wine tastes, so let’s begin with those elements of a wine. We will describe wine in terms of fruit, tannin, acid, residual sugar, oak and body. If sommeliers and wine professionals are detectives, and we are trying to solve the mystery that is “which wine will this customer love?”, then these six elements are our best clues.
Term #1-- Acid
Bite into a lemon; that sharp, mouth puckering, jaw stinging sensation is attributed to acid. All wines contain some varying degree of that element. How much or how little varies with each grape varietal. Begin paying attention to how severely this sensation occurs when drinking wines you love. In addition, many of the cooler wine producing regions will have more acid in their wines because the cold weather allows for more difficult ripening, and therefore, a maintained level of acid. This is useful when comparing the same grape from different regions. A Chardonnay from the French region of Chablis tends to be far more acidic than one from California, in some part due to Chablis’ northerly location.
Higher acid grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Barbera, Cinsault, Chablis (Chardonnay)
Medium acid wines: Chardonnay (California), Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Red Zinfandel
Lower acid grapes: Gewürztraminer (Alsace), Dolcetto
Term #2-- Tannin
Drink a cup of hot black tea, or eat a handful of walnuts. That dry mouth feeling that you are suddenly experiencing is due to a chemical called “tannin” and wines with a lot of it are described as “tannic”. Many consumers cringe at the term, but most of the wines that consumers seem to love the most are wines with medium, medium plus, or high tannin structures. Tannins are derived mostly from the skins of the grapes and give the wine its color, which is why you will not hear a white wine described as tannic. Also, tannin is responsible for allowing a wine to get better with age, because they act as a preservative, which is why wines like Cabernet Sauvignon are so age-worthy. Tannin is also derived from aging a wine in oak barrels. Tannin from grape skins is more often felt across your teeth and on the back of your lips.
Higher tannin wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Malbec
Medium tannin wines: Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Merlot
Low tannin wines: Barbera, Pinot Noir
Term #3: Fruit
Fruit, surprisingly, seems to confuse people more than any other descriptor. Many associate fruit with sweetness. Remember, limes are fruit too, and no one accuses them of being sweet. Fruit is simply another way for a salesperson to make certain deductions about the wine you will like the most. If you tell your server or your sommelier that you like a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, they are now likely assuming that you like a wine with higher acid and more tartness, because the fruit character of a wine like a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is grapefruit and other citrus-like fruits. If a salesman is describing a “jammy” wine to you, you can feel confident that if you often enjoy wines like Red Zinfandel, with its cooked blueberry, blackberry or cranberry jam flavors, you may also enjoy the wine that he is suggesting. “Cooked”, “fresh”, “baked”, “ripe” and “candied” are all terms you may see or hear when describing the fruit in the wine because this is an indication of ripeness, or a lack thereof, without necessarily implying that the wine itself will be sweet. A wine may have very sweet fruit characteristics and not be a sweet wine. While many people have retorted that the only fruit that they taste in their wine is grapes, fruit characteristics are evident in every wine we drink, some are just more easily discernible than others. If identifying fruit in wine is difficult for you, read a bit about the wines you do love and see what fruit other people find in the wine. Many labels list the fruit characteristics on the wine itself, and you may also find other consumers’ descriptions on the Internet. It may help you identify those flavors yourself, or find alternative wines that you’ll love. In addition, eating more fruit, or simply tasting more fruit, will also help you to identify these flavors in your wine.
Citrus fruits: lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange (either flesh or rind)
Stone fruits: cherry, peach, plum, apricot
Tree fruits/orchard fruits: apples, pears
Sub-tropical/tropical fruits: pineapple, lychee, banana, guava, dates, fig, raisin
Melons: cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon
Berries: strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, cranberry, gooseberry, currant
Term #4: Residual sugar
This is the term we are looking for when we are actually talking about sweetness in a wine. If a wine professional refers to a wine’s residual sugar, this is when we can start thinking about sweetness in a wine. In addition, the term “dry” in a wine simply means the absence of residual sugar, or the absence of sweetness, regardless of acid or tannin. Imagine sweetening iced tea… some people like only a tiny bit of sweetness. They may order an unsweetened iced tea and add a packet of sugar. This tea only has a bit of “residual sugar”. A tea that is made with several cups of sugar diluted with water and added to the tea would be very sweet, and therefore has a high amount of residual sugar. Varietals like Italian Moscatos, or some German Rieslings, can have a higher amount of residual sugar. Other Rieslings, like Pfalz Rieslings, also German, tend to trade sugar for higher alcohol, and therefore have lower residual sugar than their Mosel counterparts. It is important if you enjoy a sweeter or drier wine to refer to these levels of sweetness as high, medium or low residual sugar when describing it to a wine salesperson. In addition, wines with residual sugar can also be referred to by their level of dryness. Brut Champagnes, for instance, have less than 15 grams of sugar per liter (definitely a dry wine), while a dessert wine, like Sauternes from France, have at least 45 grams of sugar per liter (and definitely considered to be as sweet southern sweet tea!). A term like “brut” implies that the wine will have little to no residual sugar. Terms like “demi-sec” or “off-dry” imply that the wine is less dry and has a higher degree of sugar remaining in the wine. Being aware of what “residual sugar” and “dry” mean will ensure that you do not receive a Mosel Riesling (high residual sugar, high acid) when you really wanted a French style Chardonnay from Chablis (no residual sugar, also high acid).
Higher residual sugar wines: Dessert wines, such as Sauternes, Moscato d’Asti, Trockenbeerenauslese, or Port; also some Rieslings, especially Spatlese and Auslese Rieslings from Germany
Medium residual sugar wines: Prosecco, some Abbocato from Italy, some Chenin Blanc from Loire Valley, France
Low residual sugar wines: Many if not most red wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Brut Champagne, Cortese from Italy, Pinot Grigio, Viognier
Term #5: Oak
Ah, oak. Used in the aging process of the majority of red wines, which tend to take well to oak, many winemakers are now experimenting with fermenting/aging white wines in oak as well. Some white varietals have become famous due to their sublime adaptation to oak, like Chardonnay. Others have been shown to fare better using stainless steel, which allows a wine to maintain more acid, and often more fruit character as well. In white wines, oak can add a new dimension entirely. When tasting oak in a wine, the most obvious indicators are flavors of vanilla and baking spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. If a white wine evokes memories of your Grandmother’s apple pie, it is likely that the wine has been fermented or aged in newer, likely American, oak barrels (think California Chardonnay). A wine producer may also choose to use French oak, or neutral oak in a wine, which will be more subtle than their American counterparts (think Cote de Beaune white Burgundy, also Chardonnay). If a wine has no tannins to begin with, oak aging will contribute tannin to a wine. In red wines with an abundance of tannin, oak aging will soften a wine’s tannin, making it more approachable. In a wine with very little natural tannin, a winemaker may ferment or age the wine in oak barrels in order to add character or longevity to a wine. When tasting oak tannin (as opposed to tannin derived from grapes), you tend to feel the dryness at the roof of your mouth.
Term #6: Body
Body refers to the weight of the wine in one’s mouth. When trying to determine the body of a wine, think milk. Yes, milk. Light bodied wines, like many low alcohol whites, can be compared to skim milk, or sometimes even to water. They will leave the lightest of coating on one’s glass and they will feel relatively light on the palate. If you are looking for a medium bodied wine, you may prefer something with the weight of 2% milk. Full bodied wines will have the weight of whole milk. They will leave a coating on your glass that may remain long after you have taken a drink and set your glass down. Another thing to keep in mind when determining what fullness of body you expect from your wine is region. Often, the warmer a climate, the fuller bodied your wine will be. When choosing wine on your own, if you know that you are looking for a full bodied red, think of wine growing regions with warmer climates, such as Australia, Chile, California or Argentina. This is not to say that there are not lighter bodied wines from warmer regions, but much of the time, in following this rule, you will find the fullness or lightness of body that you are seeking.
Light bodied wines: Riesling
Medium bodied wines: Gamay (Beaujolais), Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio
Full bodied wines: Cabernet, Grenache, Red Zinfandel, Merlot, Malbec
*A disclaimer to this section: a wine’s body, as well as every other factor discussed here today, can change depending upon region, climate and producer. The varietals listed are generalizations, with exceptions on occasion, of course!
Bonus Term: “Earth”
I find when selling wine that the terms that we use regarding earth can turn people off of a wine faster than any other. When a wine professional refers to a wine tasting like “turned earth”, “grass”, “limestone”, “manure”, “mushrooms” or “floral”, this does not necessarily mean that your wine is going to actually taste like your garden, a stone or a flower. These are subtle taste descriptors that often characterize a certain “je ne sais quoi” in a wine that is often most helpful when trying to convey “terroir”—a term that indicates place, where a wine is grown. Often, they indicate a certain type of dryness (the “earthiness”) or a crisp and refreshing minerality (the “limestone” element). Many sommeliers taste oyster shells in Chardonnays from Chablis, mushrooms in French Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, or violets in French Malbecs from Cahors. The more that one practices tasting, the more these subtle tastes will become evident to you, but rarely are the predominant elements in any wine, and they are certainly nothing of which you need to be afraid!
Always remember—taste is subjective. You are not necessarily wrong about what you taste in a wine, but if you are able to understand the tactile sensations of the terms listed above, you will have a better chance of successfully communicating your desires to those trying to find you the right bottle of wine. As always, good luck and good drinking!
Next week: Demystifying some of the world’s most famous wines called by many names-except the name of the actual grapes that comprise them!
Saturday, July 9, 2011
A Wine Geek’s Persistent Pursuit to Make The Whole World understand and Love Wine!
Have you ever gone to a restaurant or a wine shop and tried to purchase a bottle of wine, only to find that you and the person assisting you seem to be speaking two completely different languages? That is probably because, in a sense, you are. Those of us who sell wine professionally are privy to training that can render us incapable of describing wine to people who aren’t necessarily wine aficionados. It doesn’t mean the average wine consumer is unsophisticated or worse, stupid, but it may make them feel that way. This is precisely how wine got its bad reputation for being the most pretentious of all alcoholic beverages.
If we’re being completely honest, sommeliers, and other trained wine professionals, have likely brought this unfair perception about wine’s pretense upon themselves. Yes, wine is a very complicated subject. It can be studied for years on end, and still never be fully learned. It is ever evolving and ever changing, but that is precisely what makes wine so much fun! However, when you work so hard to learn something that most people don’t ever take the time to understand, many can’t help the temptation to act superior about their acquired knowledge. It is human nature, especially in a business like the food service industry where, often times, employees are subjected to some of society’s harshest treatment. Hungry people can be mean! Unfortunately, it can be satisfying to feel a bit superior with one table when another has just asked snapped their fingers and you and instructed you to bring them another glass of Merlot…without so much as a “please” or a “thank you”.
On the other hand, I think we’ve all had the misfortune of experiencing a sommelier, wine steward or manager who has taken all of the fun out of ordering a bottle of wine. Whether it be a holier-than-thou attitude, an eagerness to oversell you on a bottle that you can’t (or won’t) afford, or just a general inability to convey the wine’s true character to you, it ruined the experience, and may have made you hesitant to ever attempt bottle service in a restaurant again. Having a bottle of wine at your table that you truly enjoy enriches the dining experience, and I believe, increases the quality of your service. It’s time to bridge the gap between wine experts and wine drinkers, so this is an experience you relish, not dread. As a reforming wine snob, aspiring sommelier, and eternal wine geek, I feel it is my duty to make wine something that is accessible to the masses. In this column, I will host a tutorial on wine that will demystify the world’s most highfaluting adult beverage! I hope you’ll join us here, and please, if you have questions plaguing you about wine, send them to us at http://learntolovevin.blogspot.com!
Next column: Learn the terms that will ensure that you get the style of wine you want when ordering wine (as long as the person you’re ordering from knows what they’re talking about!)
If we’re being completely honest, sommeliers, and other trained wine professionals, have likely brought this unfair perception about wine’s pretense upon themselves. Yes, wine is a very complicated subject. It can be studied for years on end, and still never be fully learned. It is ever evolving and ever changing, but that is precisely what makes wine so much fun! However, when you work so hard to learn something that most people don’t ever take the time to understand, many can’t help the temptation to act superior about their acquired knowledge. It is human nature, especially in a business like the food service industry where, often times, employees are subjected to some of society’s harshest treatment. Hungry people can be mean! Unfortunately, it can be satisfying to feel a bit superior with one table when another has just asked snapped their fingers and you and instructed you to bring them another glass of Merlot…without so much as a “please” or a “thank you”.
On the other hand, I think we’ve all had the misfortune of experiencing a sommelier, wine steward or manager who has taken all of the fun out of ordering a bottle of wine. Whether it be a holier-than-thou attitude, an eagerness to oversell you on a bottle that you can’t (or won’t) afford, or just a general inability to convey the wine’s true character to you, it ruined the experience, and may have made you hesitant to ever attempt bottle service in a restaurant again. Having a bottle of wine at your table that you truly enjoy enriches the dining experience, and I believe, increases the quality of your service. It’s time to bridge the gap between wine experts and wine drinkers, so this is an experience you relish, not dread. As a reforming wine snob, aspiring sommelier, and eternal wine geek, I feel it is my duty to make wine something that is accessible to the masses. In this column, I will host a tutorial on wine that will demystify the world’s most highfaluting adult beverage! I hope you’ll join us here, and please, if you have questions plaguing you about wine, send them to us at http://learntolovevin.blogspot.com!
Next column: Learn the terms that will ensure that you get the style of wine you want when ordering wine (as long as the person you’re ordering from knows what they’re talking about!)
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