Demystifying Bordeaux and Burgundy

Even the most novice wine consumer has heard the terms Burgundy and Bordeaux, two wine terms that conjure fear in those just beginning to learn wine, and even some of those who have made wine a career! Often, the more you learn about these two renowned French wine regions, the more confusing they become, so it is important to begin with just the basics. We will touch on the most prominent sub-regions within Burgundy and Bordeaux, and we will highlight other less prominent sub-regions in the future, when we begin discussing great bargain wines. These “basics” should allow you to assist your wine professional in leading you through the French wine adventure that awaits you!

Bordeaux and Burgundy are not grapes, they are regions!
Last week, we discussed Old World vs. New World, and the importance of a wine’s sense of place in the Old World. Bordeaux and Burgundy both embody the idea of terroir, and are quintessentially Old World wines. The regions both contain a myriad of soil types, which influence both which grapes will be grown, and how the grapes character will be affected. This is just one factor in why Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux will taste different from Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. In the 20th and 21st centuries, as winemaking spans the globe, specifying varietals from a particular part of the world is important in distinguishing them in both style and quality.

What grapes are used in Bordeaux and Burgundy?
France has strict rules about what varietals a winemaker can put into a wine and still claim that it comes from a specific area. Bordeaux, a region in western France, permits winemakers to use several grape varietals in its wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Carmènere, and Petit Verdot (although the latter three are used in very small proportions, if at all) for reds; and Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle for whites. These wines are blended to some degree by producers to create their best wine based on the best grapes that grow in their small corner of their Bordeaux world. Also, weather can be inclement and unpredictable here, and growing different varietals that ripen at earlier and later points of the year ensure that the producer is never left empty handed. For instance, think of Bordeaux as a heart with a peace sign drawn inside of it. This is a crude description, but it will allow you to envision the general idea of Bordeaux’s specific regions. The left side of the heart is the “Left Bank” of Bordeaux. Because of the variable soil types here, wines are based in most part on the two varietals that tend to grow the most successfully in those soil types: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The other grapes are added for character if they are a superior vintage, like the late-ripening Petit Verdot. The right side of the heart, the “Right Bank”, relies most heavily on Merlot, because it ripens early, and it does well in the Right Bank’s clay and limestone soils. Cabernet Franc is also used in Right Bank Bordeaux blends, but Cabernet Sauvignon is seen more seldomly. Within the Left and Right Banks are many broad and specific regions, the latter of which produce some of the finest wines in the world. The bottom of the heart encompasses the Entre-Deux-Mers (a French term meaning “between two rivers) which is the heart of white wine production in Bordeaux.

Burgundy, a wine region in eastern France, permits winemakers to use only four main varietals in its wines, with few exceptions, and the only two that produce the highest quality wines of the region are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Beaujolais, another region within Burgundy, makes wines based on the Gamay grape. There are two smaller quality wine making regions within Burgundy that produce some of the world’s finest wines: Chablis, which is based exclusively on Chardonnay; and the Cote d’Or (which contains the two smaller regions of Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune). Chablis is Chardonnay, but it is referred to as Chablis because of the Old World tendency to label wines based on their place of origin, and because it is such a unique representation of Chardonnay. To call Chablis simply Chardonnay is to minimize the uniquity of the wine. Many believe that the oyster shell quality of the soil can be tasted in this bone dry interpretation of the varietal, a true expression of terroir. Unlike its American counterparts, which are often fermented or aged in new American or French oak, Chablis is rarely made in anything stronger than neutral oak barrels, and often in stainless steel. The Cote d’Or is divided into two smaller regions, the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. Generally speaking, the wines of the Cote de Nuits are red, based exclusively on Pinot Noir; the wines of the Cote de Beaune are whites, based on Chardonnay. The way that I remember this general rule of thumb would make some sommeliers cringe, I’m sure, but I will tell you the trick anyway. “Nuits” is the French word for “night” and therefore the wines are darker in color than the Cote de Beaune (pronounced “bone”), and bones are white. There are notable exceptions to this rule in each region, but we’ll leave that to your favorite wine professional to memorize and to pass on to you when you are well versed in the wines of the region.

These are regions that I personally approach with a sizeable amount of money in my wallet. While both Bordeaux and Burgundy have other regions within them that produce lovely wines at lower price points, they are more rare and difficult to find, so consult with a sommelier or a wine retailer for assistance when purchasing less expensive wines from these regions. Otherwise, you may find yourself with a disappointing representation.