Allow me to take a moment to present you with a few tasting reviews from a few different bottles of wine, c/o Wine Spectator...
“Satiny, ultrarich and deeply complex, with layers of floral, butterscotch, fig, apricot and pear flavors that are impeccably balanced; while the flavors are bold and concentrated on the entry, this wine turns amazingly elegant and sophisticated on the finish.”--WS
“Seamless, harmonious and seductive, its gorgeous cascade of pear, pineapple, guava, nectarine and subtle spice aromas and flavors flowing across the palate like a babbling brook in a Japanese garden. Amazingly refined and built to last, but it feels utterly complete already. The finish just sails on and on.”--WS
“Sensational quality defines this racy yet generous, opulent, full-bodied white. A mineral streak weaves itself through the creamy, silky structure, offering an ethereal experience of wet stones, flinty notes and a real sense of terroir. Add the fresh citrus, honey, floral and pear flavors and you get a divine complexity. Pure, clean, chewy finish.”--WS
“Bright and lively, with juicy apple, star fruit and honeydew flavors that glide through the finish effortlessly, lingering well.”--WS
“Richly textured and sporting plenty of spice, this full-bodied white is backed by enough acidity to keep it from being soft. Nice length.”--WS
Can you guess each one of these wines based on these notes? If you drink a lot of wine, you may have drawn some conclusions, but the one conclusion that you may not have drawn was this: they’re all the same grape.
Chardonnay… one of the hardiest, easiest to grow varietals in the world, it adapts to a myriad of different climates and soil types. And yet, on so many occasions, I have heard wine enthusiasts in my restaurants say “I don’t like Chardonnay”, four words that make me cringe like very few other four words can!
While I will admit that there are some consistencies amongst the tasting notes above (pear, anyone?), there are some distinct differences as well. Some are described as rich, opulent and sophisticated; others, bright, lively, with minerality and acidity. Some describe the indicators associated with oak, such as butterscotch, and others, do not.
This is where I take issue with those who claim to dislike Chardonnay. I do not begrudge you your personal tastes in wine. I just want you to keep an open mind in regard to all that Chardonnay has to offer!
Chardonnay is grown in nearly every major wine growing region in the world: Australia, France, Italy, Spain, the United States, South America, South Africa, and others, of course. These regions all boast significantly different climates and soil contents, not to mention culture, so as a consumer, why would you think that they would all provide the same Chardonnay experience? Let’s take a brief tour of what each region brings to the varietal (leaving the United States and all its
Chardonnays' complexities for another column). In addition, I will provide a delicious, inexpensive version of each region’s style of Chardonnay for you to try to discover for yourself which, if any, Chardonnay is the right version for you!
Australia: Chardonnay production in this region has run the gamut from the over extracted, over oaked style of California bulk Chardonnay, to the current day trend of earlier picking, less new oak, and flintier styles of the world’s most adaptable grape. Because of the diversity of climates down under, the Chardonnay can range from rich and buttery (Hunter Chardonnay) to austere and complex (Margaret River), but this is the New World, so expect a cornucopia of lush fruit. Your best bet: go with the Margaret River version to get a true idea of what Australian Chardonnay is capable of.
Best buy: Cape Mentell, Voyager Estate
France: As discussed in the previous column, France’s Burgundy region is home to some of the world’s finest Chardonnay… and the world’s most expensive. The style of Chardonnay in this region varies from rich with an underlying raciness to bright and lively. Typically, any Chardonnay from the Cote de Beaune (think of the famously expensive sub-regions of Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault) or Chablis are going to be an investment. Here, expect the use of French oak (more subtle than American oak) or even neutral oak or stainless steel as you head further south into Burgundy (think Pouilly Fuisse or Maconnais). If you want to get a feel for what the region has to offer on a beer budget, I would consider the whites of the Maconnais for superb value.
Best buy: Verget (this producer makes a variety of value-priced wines south of the Cote d’Or, but check out their Pouilly Fuisse for the best bang for your buck)
Italy: There are many Italian producers making un-oaked Chardonnays at very affordable price points, but I wouldn’t necessarily venture to recommend them because, frankly, there are better, inexpensive versions coming from other regions. However, there are a few winemakers that are making elegant Chardonnays aged in French oak that are worth the money if you are willing to spend it. One such example is Felsina Berardenga “I Sistri” Chardonnay from Tuscany, found on the rare restaurant wine list for about $70 a bottle. Querciabella’s “Batar” Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco blend, which is an ethereal wine experience, is an even pricier endeavor, at a release price of around $90 a bottle (meaning a restaurant wine list would price the wine at about $180).
New Zealand: Ah, the region that made Sauvignon Blanc a household name is now churning out some of most lovely and balanced expressions of Chardonnay. In the face of the rest of the New World’s obsession with oak and all that it entails, New Zealand went a different way, instead choosing to express Chardonnay’s luscious fruit character with solid acidity. Hawkes Bay produces the finest examples, but don’t discount Marlborough for value!
Best buy: Tasman Bay
South Africa: South Africa is a Chardonnay crap shoot. If you are an adventurer, you can easily explore the many renditions of South African Chardonnay without breaking the bank. If you are looking for more of a guarantee, do a little research before buying.
Best buys: Hamilton Russell, Mulderbosch
United States: I am not going to spend any time touching on Chardonnay in the U.S. because frankly, it is a column in itself. I do, however, want to throw in a last ditch effort to convince those who are, up to now, unconvinced. Chehalem, a boutique winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, produces a fine, stainless steel fermented, “Dijon clones” Chardonnay for those who find the oak itself more offensive than the grape.
Best buy: Chehalem INOX Chardonnay
In your pursuit of your Chardonnay education, you will inevitably experience ups and downs. Any wine as popular and marketable as Chardonnay is bound to produce more than a handful of duds. The exceptional Chardonnays though will provide you with some of the most exciting wine memories of your life, so I beg of you, don’t give up too easily on this varietal quite yet. You may just miss out on one of the great (wine) loves of your life.
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